Category: Camera

Categories
Camera Equipment Gadgets Hardware HDR Long Exposure Photography Reviews Tips

TripodClamps for iTouch – Review

TripodClamps.com RAP-B-121-UN7U Cell Phone Clamp

Abandoned Paper Mill Reflections hdr 09
Abandoned Paper Mill Reflections hdr 09

When I originally wrote my research review, and posted it on Google+, one of the companies that I heard from was TripodClamps.com, and they suggested that I take a look at their Model RAP-B-121-UN7U Cell Phone Clamp on their website.

After reviewing the information, we exchanged a few more comments on Google+, about my concern for the iPod slipping from the four fingers of the clamp, and I was reassured that the rubber and the tension from the string grips would be sufficient.

So I ordered a unit, and several days later, my box arrived, and I quickly put the unit together and on my tripod for testing in my office.

Interestingly enough, I did allow my kids (8g & 6b) to play with the clamp and my iTouch, while connected to my camera, and I did not see any real reason to worry if the iTouch was slipping, even as my kids removed and replaced the iTouch, several times. I did this to try to judge the grip strength.

They could do it, but not easily.

Testing on Land – Completed and qualified

My next test was going to be over some water, on a little damn spillway near me.

This was my first time carrying my tripod while the clamp was attached, and it became quickly apparent, that it was there.

At first, there was now only one way I could carry the tripod on my shoulder, without the unit poking me in the head or shoulder, and while climbing through the brush, it was another item that did get caught in the branches as I walked around.

Another thing that I wanted to check, while over water, was how easy it was to trigger the camera from the iDevice, and not cause any additional movement further up the tripod.

Yes, I tried this on land, but there is something about being over water, and about to trigger a 15+ minute series of exposures.

One already has to worry about the water rushing around the tripod legs causing vibrations.

I was happy to find, that the clamp did not seem to transmit any additional moment, and the iDevice seems to be more sensitive than I had realized!

120912 Marsh Creek Spillway bw 07 - (3) Stops [32-259 seconds] f22 ISO 100
120912 Marsh Creek Spillway bw 07 – (3) Stops [32-259 seconds] f22 ISO 100
Testing over Water – Completed and qualified

Conclusion

If you are interested in a way to attach your iTouch to a Tripod, I would definitely invite you to take a look at this TripodClamps.com offering.

I am also still looking for a water-proof case for my iTouch, and the Clamp seems to have enough extra ‘reach’ that I will not have to by another mount.

Even though I did run into some issues while first working with this Clamp, that seemed more about me, learning how to best work with new equipment, then the function of the clamp, and I offer the following “Notes to Self”…

Notes to self

  • Carry clamp in a vest pocket while walking/exploring
  • Attach clamp prior to going over water
  • Keep iDevice in a pocket till needed

[contentblock id=1]

Categories
Blogging Camera Equipment Gadgets Photography Tech Talk Thoughts Utilities

Searching for the Remote

No, I am not searching for the TV Remote, this time…

But a for a new Remote for my photography work.

Back when I first purchased my Canon XTi in 2007, I also purchased both the
Remote Switch RS-60E3 and Wireless Remote Controller RC-1, and have used them various times over the years, but after seeing a couple of recent Posts on Facebook and Google+, the thoughts of looking for something new has begun.

In reading the Posts, I was also left with what kind? A dedicated stand-alone unit or connected to my iPod Touch, and did I want to be able to program the unit?

Dedicated Stand-alone

The first article that I read was on Stand-alone units, “6 top remote releases tested and rated” on photozz.com that got me thinking about upgrading my old Canon Remote Switch RS-60E3.

In reading the article, the Hähnel Giga T Pro II Remote Control is the top pick, and has a video on YouTube showing one the various features, and runs about $100 USD form various outlets.

Mobile connectivity

In my daily reading, I also spotted a Google+ post in which the author announced that they had just received their TriggerHappy, and was excited to try it out.

In following the thread, I was also made aware of the Triggertrap Mobile combination, so my researching began.

Making the Connection

In the case of the Hähnel Giga T Pro II, there are two parts, the wireless transmitter and the receiver that sits on the camera. The unit easily does remote triggering, interval, and long exposures, but does lack any direct HDR functionality.

With both TriggerHappy and Triggertrap, you need cable from the camera to the Control device (iOS (or Android)), and there is a significant range in price for cables.

Cables

To connect my iPod Touch, the cables from TriggerHappy (E3) would cost $49.95, while the Triggertrap’s would require two different cables, a Triggertrap Mobile Dongle ($9.99) and a CL-E3 Camera Cable ($9.99). The easy price winner is Triggertrap.

Software

The Trigger Happy Remote App on iTunes is Free, and is currently at v 1.0.2 (8/8/12), while the Triggertrap (v 1.2.0 (8/2/12)) is available in two versions: Free (limited to 3 trigger modes (Cable Release, vibration sensor and time-lapse) and the Full Premium version at $9.99 on iTunes. The winner here is Trigger Happy, how do you beat Free!

Interface

Both software applications seem to be able to perform Remote trigger, Bulb, time-lapse, plus HDR captures, which is something that I am very interested in.

When looking at the HDR controls, the TriggerHappy app seems to allow 1/3 step increments, which allows for finer control, while the Triggertrap seems limited to full stops, so the Edge here seems to be TriggerHappy.

The real separation between the two applications seems to be the various triggers that are available, and the edge in this case seems to be Triggertrap with 5 sensors (Sound, Shock/Vibration, Metal/Magnetic), 4 modes (HDR Time-lapse, Distance-lapse, Motion detection, Cable release and Star Trail), as well as Facial Recognition.

Conclusion

I like the wireless concept of the Hähnel Giga T Pro II, but the price and lack of HDR capabilities takes it out of consideration.

A big concern of mine, when looking at both these systems, is having to carry and connect my iPod Touch, which my not seem like allot, but when you are standing in 2-3 of water in a rushing stream/river, it could be an issue. I also have to wonder what to do during the winter, when the iPod might be exposed to colder temperatures.

Update – (8/10/12 @ 23:18) – In a response to my original Post, I have received info on the “RAP-B-121-UN7U The RAM Universal X-Grip Cell Phone Holder and Clamp” by TripodClamps.com, which looks like a very promising attachment for hold the iPod to my tripod. Thanks Marty Cohen!

The TriggerHappy does seem to support finer exposure controls, with the 1/3 stop settings, but basic HDR exposures should be able to compensate for that, if correctly bracketed.

With all that has been written above, it seems that at this point, the Triggertrap system would be the most versatile and cost efficient purchase, and will be purchased shortly after the posting of this blog entry.

As always, questions and comments are welcome and encouraged!

– Andrew
§ § § § §
[adrotate banner=”1″]
Categories
Blogging Camera Gedankenexperiment HDR How to(s)? Information Online Life Photography Reference Reviews Tech Talk Tips Tone Mapping Website

HDR Cookbook by Klaus Herrmann (farbspiel)

HDR Cookbook - Klaus Herrmann (farbspiel)
HDR Cookbook – Klaus Herrmann (farbspiel)

A couple of days ago, I found the link to “HDR Cookbook – Creating 32-bit HDRs the Right Way“, and basically, have NOT left the website since.

Klaus Herrmann (farbspiel) is a photographer out of Germany, who specializes in Interior HDR Photography.

On his main website, “HDR Cookbook“, you will find a wonderful collection of pages, that describe in vivid detail, the ‘what’ and ‘how’ of creating his beautiful images.

Topic include:

Over the years, I have gone through many pages and videos on “How to do…” HDR, but this is the first site that I have found, that goes into ‘in-depth’ experiments explaining why certain steps are needed to achieve the final product.

Seeing the side-by-side effects of software and processing, has caused me to reconsider how I will view and process future images.

Recently, I have been revisiting some of my older captures, and processing them with new knowledge and techniques.

In reading Klaus’ suggested Workflow, which is highly recommended, he makes the following observation:

Let the finished file sit on your hard disk for a day or two. Don’t post it right away. I found that when you get back to it a day later, you will discover things that you might want to change, things that you did not discover while you were working on the details of the image very intensely. If you let you mind do other things and some time passes, you will look at the image more objectively, more like your viewers will. If you’re content with the image now, go ahead and post it.

Needless to say, I highly recommend that if you are interested in HDR, Tone Mapping related photography, and are in search of some advanced tips, techniques and very qualified insights, then you should be rewarded with a visit to “HDR Cookbook“.

[contentblock id=1]

Categories
Camera How to(s)? Information Photography Reference Tips Travel Weather

Cold Weather and Your Camera

Snow Stream hdr 13 (2011)
Snow Stream hdr 13 (2011)

As Chester County was getting its first real snow fall of the New Year on Thursday and Friday, I was very anxious about getting out and getting some photography in, but was thwarted with the regular activities of life: Clients, Family, Plowing, Roads, etc.

But I was finally able to get out late yesterday afternoon, to shoot the little stream along Norwood Road heading into Downingtown, which was fairly untouched, except for a single set of tracks left by a dog and it’s owner.

As I trudged through the snow with my camera bag and tripod, I was reminded of an earlier series of comments I made on “cold weather camera tips“, and I thought I would revisited the post to single the content and to add additional thoughts and information.

Heading Out – Things that can slow down

Most people when faced with shooting in cold conditions, generally only think about what cloths and boots they are going to wear to keep them warm during their photographic adventure, which is very important, but it does not stop there.

Your camera also has moving parts that need to be included in your thinking.

The Camera Body

Before the advent of Digital Cameras, Traditional Film based cameras had many more moving parts that one had to be concerned with when working in cold weather.

On Traditional Film Cameras, the Film Transport mechanism and Rollers where usually the most vulnerable as the lubricants became more viscous and in extreme case, freezing altogether.

One also had to be careful with the film itself, because it to could be brittle, and break when being thread into the camera body.

There was also the increase in static electrical charges, that could cause little lighting patterns on the film, especially during the rewinding process.

With Digital Cameras, obviously there is no need to move film, so issues associated with the moving and winding film became less relevant.

In both Film and Digital cameras, the mirror mechanism that allows one to look in to the eyepiece and then see through the lens also has the potential of slowing down as the temperature falls.

Lens

The blades that make up the iris diaphragm or aperture of the lens and the mechanics uses for auto focusing can also be sensitive to the cold. These features may slow down, stick together or freeze, there by not allowing the correct exposure or focus quality.

Batteries

As the temperature falls, the chemicals inside the batteries used to produce a current, will begin to diminish, and at some point, the camera will stop working at all.

Ever have problems starting your Car in the winter?

Needless to say, I keep my batteries as warm as possible, and carry an extra set.

What to do?

The most obvious answer is to keep your camera gear warm by simply keep it near your body for warmth, and do NOT breath heavily on the camera in an attempt to warm it up!

This can cause condensation which is the biggest evil!

Condensation

As mentioned earlier, condensation, which is caused by the sudden changes in temperature, can damage your camera’s electronics.

This usually is a cumulative issue, meaning, it might not happen on the first time, but after many sessions.

What needs to occur, is the gradual transition of temperatures between indoors and outdoors on your camera.

Use your camera bag as a place to help in the transition. The bag’s cushions and partitions will help to absorb the temperature extremes.

It is also good practice to place your equipment into plastic bags as part of the transition and condensation control.

There does seem to be a debate about keeping the camera inside your coat.

Here you have to be sensible, and coordinate with you environment.

Remember:

  1. You body heat is going to make for a larger extreme when you take it out
  2. Your body sweats, adding moisture to the situation

If you have to keep your camera next to you body, use caution and common sense.

When traveling to your destination, keep your gear in the coldest section of your car, like the back and maybe even the trunk. That way, the camera can slowly cool down. Use the reverse when heading home.

In our house, we have a “mud room” area, that is not as warm as the rest of the house, but it is where I can acclimate the camera, before it reaches my office, which also happens to be a colder part of the house!

Other Cold Weather Tips

  • Carry an Extra Set of Batteries
  • Remove the Batteries until needed – Warm Batteries
  • Turn off the LCD screen until needed – Battery Drain
  • Turn off the Auto Focus feature until needed – Battery Drain

I hope you have found this posting useful, so go out an enjoy the cold weather with you camera!

References

– Andrew
§ § § § §
[adrotate banner=”1″]
Categories
Camera Equipment

Hard time focusing… Replacement Focus Screens for your Digital Camera

I have been meaning to write this blog entry for some time now, but as I am waiting for my bread’s second to rise…

As many of you know, I have been involved with Photography for over 35 years now, and I started with a simple Canon Canonet rangefinder from my dad, which Canon introduced in early 1961.

At some point in the late 1970’s, my Dad purchased a Canon AE-1, which was the family’s first Single-Lens Reflex (SLR) camera, and slowly, I was allowed to use the camera, which opened up new avenues in terms of different lens, the elimination of parallax errors and easier and more accurate focusing.

The summer after graduating high school (St. Andrew’s School, Middletown, DE), I worked as a Life Guard, and used the money that I earned, to finally purchase my first Camera, a Canon A-1!

I had allot of fun with that camera! It went every where with me, including Ithaca college.

In the Fall of 1983, during a Photography Field Trip to Watkins Glen, I was jumping around the base of one of the Falls, when the neck strap broke, and I watched my camera slowly sink to the bottom of the river.

I was heart broken…

Fast forward to early 1984, I had left Ithaca, and was working a Freelance Photography Assistant in the Philadelphia area, and during this time, I got to work with allot of different camera, and learned what I liked and did not like, and finally earned enough money to buy a replacement.

So what did I buy?

This time, I went for the top, and got a Canon F-1!

Now I was able to really play!

Lens, Motor drives and even drop-in replaceable Focus screens!

Needless to say, I was VERY happy!

Some more fast forwarding…

One of my first jobs after college, I worked for Kodak, and during this time, I was introduced to one of the first digital cameras, which was still a prototype, and a major issue, was the “Depth of Field” when using a flash, or should I say there was none!

In the fall of 2003, just before the birth of my daughter, Madison, we bought our first digital camera, a Canon PowerShoot A70, which was mostly used to capture the first moments of Parenthood, but quickly lead to the desire for something closer to a traditional film based camera.

Finally, in the Fall of 2007, I purchased a Canon EOS Rebel XTi!

Once again I was very happy, and was burning through allot of “film”!

As I used the camera more and more, one of the first things that was beginning to drive me nuts, was the Auto Focus.

In a majority of the times, it was fine, but as I got into certain situations, the Auto Focus could easily be fooled.

One can switch to Manual Focus, but without the “split screen” focus, it is nearly impossible to really be sure that your subject is actually in focus.

This past summer, I was involved with a Flickr Forum discussion on the lack of being able to really use the manual focus on today’s camera, when a fellow Forum Member, asked if I was aware of KatzEye Optics’ replaceable focus screens.

After reading their website, I am very intrigued, but at the same time, very cautious.

These screens are nothing like the drop-ins that I have on my F-1, but are ‘semi-permanent’ replacements for your camera, which one can do themselves, but personally, when I do decide to make the switch, I am going to pay the extra cost to have them do it for me.

The bottom line is, there is an alternative to what is available, and I just wanted to let other folks know about the possibilities.

If have already make the conversion, I would really like to hear what you have to say, so please post a comment or send me an email with your experience!

– Andrew
§ § § § §
[adrotate banner=”1″]